Day 10: The Road Less Travelled

I would have liked to have started this entry by exploding into a passionate discourse surrounding the days’ events, but instead find myself angered and pissed off with nothing more than my mobile phone once again. If I never encounter another iPhone in this life-time that will have been a good thing. As we cleared up after dinner and drank a final glass of wine, I picked up my phone as I have every night in the hopes of a hundred text from friends, family and loved ones. Yet instead, I was greeted by the message: ‘No Sim Installed’. It is the second time that this same message has appeared and it required me to remove and replace the Sim card. Not really an issue you might say, but actually you need a key to get the Sim card out (which I don’t have with me as I didn’t want to lose such a tiny little thing – believe me take a look at it, it is the smallest thing in the world) and then you hope that once replaced it recognises the card otherwise you are well and truly screwed. So currently, not only do I have no signal, I now have no phone at all! How happy am I? So, if you are listening out there Mr. iPhone... sort this piece of shit out, or take it off the market. Do I have any choice but to warn people at every opportunity not to buy it? No I bloody well do not. So I will. iPhone, don’t buy it. It’s shit!!!
That aside today has been truly spectacular. Nick, his parents and I drove to a fabulous little beach which had the remains of a settlement which went back up across the cliff-face, the rocks and hills in front of us. We gave our own explanations of what each of us thought may have happened in the village, as well as how they lived, where they sorted and stored things and what the enclosures would have looked liked. From there we entered the round house on the beach; a reconstruction of a round-house that was found in the area of the beach. It is remarkable, but once inside there is no sound from the outside world accept perhaps the ocean smashing into the rocks across the bay, or the occasional bird singing as it sat on the straw and turf roof. It was nothing but peaceful.
We met Elizabeth (the caretaker – of sorts), who took the time to talk to us and explore the house. It was an extremely interesting visit and I got the feeling that she was so very pleased that we showed such an interested in the little house.
From there we made our way old to look at the Calandish Stones. A ring of stones set into the ground at some point around the time of Stonehenge. Yet there are no barriers here and you can still walk up and touch the stones. Nick and I watched the video in the visitors centre and then we made our way out to the stones. We walked, we talked and watched the myriad birds rising on the gentle summers breeze. Then for the first time in an age, there came a gentle buzzing from my jacket and I knew I had signal.
It is a very strange thing and nobody is really very sure why all of these stone circle were set up around Britain, but we do seem to have a higher concentration than anywhere else, nor are we sure why the practice was significant for a period of perhaps a 1,000 years. What I am sure of is that on that one spot, for the first time since I have been in the Western Isles, I had full signal on my phone and clear reception. I phoned home.
From there we made our way to the Barrack (?) on the Western side of the Island. A fantastic building and although a ruin you could still get access and climb part of the way up the tower. If I’m honest, the first thing that I thought of when I saw the ruin was the film Highlander, and the scene when Sean Connery’s character has his head cut off by the Kergen (watch it, you’ll see what I mean). More impressive however, was the sight we were presented with as we drove away – making our way to the lighthouse at Ness (the most Northern point on the island). We cut across winding valleys and round the side of mountains as we made our way north and as we did, Bumble and I thought we spied large birds gliding across the surface of the lochs. So, with interest peaking, Nick turned the car around and we made our way as closely as we could to the loch-side. In the distance, maybe half a mile away, there they were Golden Eagles cutting across the sky, dancing and playing in the warm air. At first we could only make out two, but as we stood watching a third and then a fourth rose into the air and began the process of diving and climbing, it seemed almost as though parents were teaching their children the skills they needed before going out into the world alone. It was truly magnificent and a memory I will hold for a long while to come.
For me the day was complete long before we reached the lighthouse (although that was spectacular). We turned the headland in a small bay. It was an important moment because it was the last convenience stop on the tour. Yet, as Nick and I looked out into the bay, we saw the most wonderful dark shape in the water, a moment later with binoculars in hand we watched a huge Basking shark cut through the wake as it made its way into the warmer water scooping the plankton. We spent 10 maybe 15 minutes just watching as the Gannets, Gulls and Gillimots circled in the sky above, diving and feeding in the wake of the great black shadow. That, the eagles and seals we saw yesterday have all made the islands everything I wished for. The nature, the history, the peace and the friendship. A wonderful visit.
Tomorrow I begin the process of packing, planning and cleaning my bike. I am now at the half way point and everywhere I go from here leads home. It is a strange feeling. I am looking forward to moving on, although I would dearly love to stay. I want to go home to friends and family, but I think I will miss the adventure in a way I never thought I would. It is an emotional experience I never expected.